Three doors from the birthplace of the Borgia popes is an exquisitely renovated silk workshop – the coolest B&B in town. Ian and partner Josechu began the renovation in 2006 and the intelligent simplicity of design reflects the serenity of the owners. White walls and uncluttered spaces combine with 18th-century elements and warm rustic textures, there are sloping beams in top-floor bedrooms, WiFi, books, games, stone steps and steep stairs and two outdoor spaces, the smallest at the top with stunning views: gaze on Monte Bernisa and Xativa’s castle and various hilltop chapels beyond. (The sunsets, too, are a glory.) The dining room sits under a large skylight and breakfast’s freshly squeezed juices are delicious: this is orange country. Xativa, older than Valencia, is a cultural reference point for the region, richly endowed with opera, ballet, theatre and heaps of authentic restaurants. Casa Aldomar is a place to gather ones thoughts, a rest stop from travelling, and its ancient door opens to a tiny cobbled street 50 metres from a fountain’d plaza. Such tranquillity is a treat in Spain!