Best to arrive in daylight – this is an isolated spot and the drive up not for the fainthearted. The province of Castelló is a jewel. With its hot hilly landscape and Arabic history (Benicàssim, Alcossebre… the names hint at the origins) it could be Morocco. It’s bliss at Ana’s place, in this corner of Eden above a valley of watermills, surrounded by olives, vines, fruit trees, fig trees and herbs. As for the Masia, the scale of the old farmhouse is cosy but never poky, the style is rustic and exquisite, and the windows frame dreamy views. Find whitewashed beams and exposed stone walls, soothing lighting and beautiful terracotta, renovated claw-foot baths and 18th-century tiles. Every item has been carefully chosen by Ana from Valencia, who meets and greets guests whenever she can. Home baked treats welcome you and there are logs for winter stays. Local markets are bright with cherries, almonds, olives, apricots, peaches and honey, fiery fiestas are a short hop and Catalan customs are alive and well, but you are well away from the hustle and bustle here. The hills will delight autumn hikers; children will love the shady terraces and small pool.