Set in the beautiful green foothills of the Pyrenees where once the family reared cattle. Jesus and Lorena’s conversion of this classic Caserio (animals downstairs/humans up) is a friendly place for walkers, birdwatchers, cyclists; anyone who relishes staying in a pretty, secluded village on the Pilgrims’ route to Pamplona – the valley is full of Romanesque churches and bridges, and stunning. Relax in the garden where the lawn runs down to the fast-flowing stream, and indoors where chunky old beams and stonework have been carefully restored, and farming tools tell of past toil. Typically small windows keep the ground floor seating area cool in summer, cosy when the wood-burner’s lit. Upstairs – or take the lift – big rooms have wide, comfortable beds and mini-bars; most have Jacuzzi-style baths; good showers, robes, soaps and lotions too. On the sloping-ceilinged top floor, one has its own balcony and stove. Sleep with windows wide open to hear the stream and the morning cock crow. Splash out on the Gran Carnival suite with its lovely terrace. Meals are a treat of things fresh and local, with regional wines at dinner.