You find the hotel a short hike up from El Berro, blissfully secluded in the Sierra Espuña, surrounded by birdsong and nature. Owner Andrés, from the village himself, is passionate about protecting the area and sustainable tourism. Now, where once a charcoal ‘factory’ and a watermill stood, stands a large low white building on three levels, in harmony with its surroundings and with amazing views. Inside all is warm and inviting: local paintings on white walls, tiled floors heated in winter, reclaimed beams, comfy sofas, and, in the main sitting room, a snazzy wood-burning fireplace. There’s an additional sitting room for every three bedrooms, with honesty bars for coffee and soft drinks. Guests come at all times of year, most for the biking and hiking, canoeing and paragliding, and of course there’s a pool for the idle. Imagine basking in the sun surrounded by fruit trees and serenaded by birds and falling water… there’s also a stream below. The food is first class and so are the rooms, some with balconies, others with terraces, all with big rain showers and colourful bed linen.