Clever owners, Gema and Marti, spent three years restoring this ancient country house; with immense flair and sensitivity they have created a sophisticated, grown-up retreat. From the moment you arrive it feels wonderfully easy to forget about normal life: slip into the infinity pool, book a massage, relish the rural solitude. Onsite there’s an airy restaurant which turns out polished regional dishes, perhaps beetroot gazpacho with tomato and shrimp followed by torta de Santiago; breakfast buffets are served here too or they can be delivered to your room. Each bedroom (most are in the main building) has been carefully revived: old beams brought back to life, polished floors, handmade headboards, glistening chandeliers, antique furniture, good lighting, crisp white linen on excellent mattresses. Some have open fires, others balconies, all have views over the garden or the distant foothills of the Catalan Pyrenees. Bathrooms are huge, utterly spoiling and well stocked with L’Occitane goodies, one even has an antique marble tub. Wander the gorgeous gardens; hike or cycle straight from the door.