Lush meadows, grazing cows, dry-stone walls – such is the rural beauty of Asturias, where gently rolling farmland gives way to the foothills of the Cuera Mountains. The hotel is a contemporary version of the traditional Asturian house, and is charming within. Plants, rugs on warm terracotta floors, modern art, subtle lighting. Much of the furniture comes from Mariá Eugenia’s home in New Delhi; exquisite wooden pieces collected on trips to India are for sale. The friendly atmosphere goes up a notch in the dining room, the hub of the hotel. Here, regulars and visitors congregate for excellent Asturian dishes, served from 9pm. Bedrooms are big and light with an air of colonial elegance; two have patios leading to the garden – a semi-tropical paradise created by Sirio and María of trees, shrubs, ferns, wild boar, deer and a stunning pergola. Spin off on one of the bikes, take a put on the golf course by the sea, set out on a coastal pony trek, dip into the pool. Your multi-lingual hosts will advise – and if sporting pursuits do not appeal, head for nearby Llanes with its handsome galleried buildings.