The owners moved south in search of the good life, and restored a century-old mill surrounded by national park. The setting is delightful: water tumbles past flowered terraces, under fig trees and willows and into the solar-heated pool. (When it comes to things environmental, these owners are top greenies.) Pretty rooms and restaurant wear warm local garb – terracotta tiles, beams, carved beds, rush-seated chairs. Fresh flowers are everywhere and the Molino’s reputation for good Spanish food is established – organic and free-range. Quite a few guests are British yet loyal locals often descend, to enjoy regional hams and sausages, rabbit, fish and imaginative vegetarian. The staff are exceptional, generous with advice on walks from the door, and other trips: take the sleepy train to Ronda, or visit some of the white villages of Andalucia. There’s good info on restaurants and birdwatching routes, too. The Molino, one of the Sierra’s most enjoyable small hotels, has achieved the perfect balance between warmth and professionalism. Pay extra for a superior room with a terrace – and book in advance.