Sam and Jeannie run a hilltop B&B on 70 hectares of land, but if you’re here to self-cater, then it’s a lush drive down the track, into the valley and across a small stream. Here lie three restored cottages, secluded and peaceful. There are wood-burners for winter and private summer pools, all the bedrooms are en suite, one cottage – Pedro’s – has a small extra bunkroom downstairs, and kitchens are Spanish-rustic and excellently equipped. If the chef wants a night off, then stroll to the whitewashed village of Los Marines for delicious home cooking at Carlos’ bar, or drive to more bustling Fuenteheridos. Or, for dinner in candlelit house-party style, you can book in at the farmhouse itself. The walking is outstanding, the setting is bucolic: owls hoot, boar roam, butterflies shimmer, and the wild flowers are a glory from April to June. The cottages are TV free but have iPod docks for music; as for WiFi, it’s public and free in Los Marines’ main square. In Aracena, three miles up the road, you can buy the best Serrano ham in Spain – air-dried from Iberian pigs fed on Encina acorns.