Follow shoestring lanes carved by Moors and mules through the dramatic Alpujarras to an ancient white village on the southern slopes of Spain’s highest mountain, Mulhacén. You have to admire artists Tom and Carmen for spending years renovating these two adjoining 700-year-old houses – every alcove in every metre-thick stone wall, every chestnut beam and slate tile – to rustic perfection. Dive in… to eclectic Moorish decor and higgledy-pigglediness, to a pouffe by the fire, tapestries, photos, puppets, a Singer. Cosy bedrooms hide surprises: beds from Carmen’s childhood, Moorish tiles, a hobbity oval door, granite meditation chair, antique baths, one squat loo – wonderfully authentic. Between the houses lies a flower-filled patio with loungers, tables, olives, palms, and a bijou solar-heated pool with a current machine, a beautiful changing room and a steam room. You can book a massage, order homemade meals to be brought over by a cook, or wander to the new village restaurant for divine food slow cooked over a cauldron. Wild swim, walk, bike or climb – great for families and groups.