Freshly painted, off a curved cobbled street in the old town, this traditional 19th-century merchant’s house has been given a new lease of life by entrepreneurial owners. It’s simply lovely, and walking distance from pretty much everything you’ve come to experience. Of course there are bodegas aplenty to visit: Tio Pepe and Tradición to name just two. Compact rooms on three floors look onto the central, marble-tiled courtyard and are cool and uncluttered, with just the right balance of colour, comfort and antiques; beamed ceilings, voile drapes behind original shutters, carved Moroccan doors. The Romantic room has a metal four poster, the only bath and box windows with little balconies over the street. All have slim, pristine and slightly retro shower rooms, and apartments have sofabeds, too. A smart roof terrace tops things off nicely: potted plants, marble-topped tables for breakfast (a big continental spread), great views, comfortable dozing chairs. Book early for the many fiestas and displays (religious, flamenco, equestrian). Good beaches are just 7km away, perfect for kiting or surfing.