As you laze on the roof terrace you gaze on Morocco – an unparalleled view. With energy and flair Zoë has created a corner of “her spiritual home” in Tarifa. Handsome Dar Cilla (once a ruin) was built against the 12th-century town wall and wraps its exquisite self around two patios. The studios and apartments are truly lovely – wafer bricks, sienna-washed plaster, polished stucco, illuminated nooks and crannies and kilims on terracotta; the finish is superb. You get bedrooms and dining/sitting areas, shower rooms and kitchenettes in a rustic-chic, low-key Arab-Andaluz style, dotted with decorative features and fabrics that English Zoë has picked up on trips to Tangier. A stunning new loft apartment with views tempts you across the Straights. No sitting room but an amazing roof terrace, cosy and convivial with loungers, lanterns and open shower. No meals, but cafés for breakfast and a good restaurant a stroll away. Surf the golden beaches of the wind-surfing capital of Europe, gallop in pine forests, dip into the bars of the old, labyrinthine town – or do that ferry hop to Morocco.