Casa de Pomarchão goes all the way back to the 15th century but owes its present look to a rebuild of 1775 when a baroque chapel and veranda were added. The noble old manor house stands at the centre of a 60-hectare estate of vineyards and thick pine forest. Your choice is between the apartment in the main building (every inch the aristocrat’s domicile) and one of seven equally charming outbuildings beyond; they range from the old stables to the olive press. Some are classical in style (Milho, S. António and Bica), others have a more rustic feel (Toca, Espiguero and Mato). Expect soft beds, small sofas, twin-hob kitchenettes, original fireplaces and hand-painted chairs – an appealing décor. Homemade cakes and jams are brought over for breakfast to the apartments closest to the manor house; each one has French windows opening onto garden or terrace. Stroll the estate, take a splash in the atmospheric tanque, trot off down the hill for Ponte de Lima (a 30-minute walk), roast chestnuts in autumn or plan a day at the beach. This is a fine place run by charming people – we’d happily stay a week.