The house is indeed charming: a tall white Portuguese mansion with a granite trim and a commanding view over the Sousa river, which flows into the Douro a few miles down. And experiences are truly local, from wines served in the old lagar grape press to bars and shops down the cobbled lane. But it’s the Vinha family that make this place special. The 120-year-old house and its modern extension are filled with personal touches: mother’s embroidered cushions, daughter’s stencilled sayings, toys for kids and, in winter, logs crackling away in the fireplace and stove. The family will gladly help you explore, perhaps horse-riding, rafting, a bike ride along the Romanesque Route which links countless historic monuments in this verdant area. In summer, petiscos are served out in the garden by the pool: local meats, olives, cheeses, bacalhau or caldo verde made with home-grown veg. Bedrooms are simple and spotless, with decor that reflects the family’s lively personality. Curious about the name? It’s the tutor of the first king of Portugal. Just one of many quirky features of this warm and welcoming small hotel.