Stay at one of the oldest manor houses on the island. It is flanked by mountains, surrounded by vineyards and has views that sweep to the sea. This 17th-century homestead is deeply atmospheric with flagstone floors, wooden ceilings and hand-painted tiles. The dining room, where friendly, helpful staff ferry good food to convivial tables, is in the former kitchen, and the prayer room is a reading room; both are delightful with elegant antiques. The peaceful, gracious atmosphere extends to the lush grounds; stroll among the angel’s trumpets, dream to the song of the canaries, play boules under the ancient oaks as your children clamber up the tulip tree, cool off in the pools. Then back for a glass of the Quinta’s very fine madeira. Bedrooms in the main house have traditional furnishings and are flooded with light; the apartments, well set apart and newly built of Madeiran stone, have comfortable country interiors and bold colours. You can fish from the village pier, take a dip in the sea, walk the nearby Levada Nova, pluck a passionfruit from a tree. A happy place.