Welcome to this 18th-century quinta, white and sparkling with a yellow trim. Tucked into the mountains of the Sintra Natural Park, it overlooks a lush valley that leads to the sea… the setting is beguiling. Ana and Luis opened to guests in 2014, but Eugaria is still a fruit farm, delightfully so. They grow vegetables as well and have fresh eggs every day, and their chutneys and conserves are delicious – buy some to take home. We loved the bedrooms too, airy, light, impeccably turned out: a good-sized double, a huge family suite, and a ground-floor apartment with a simple kitchen for two. Terracotta floors gleam; bathrooms stock Portuguese soaps and soft white towels; diaphanous curtains flutter in the breeze. Each room has a quirky touch: the branch of a tree adapted for lighting, an old sewing machine turned into a table, vintage suitcases stacked against a wall. Breakfast, a lavish affair served at elegant tables in the dining room, on the terrace, or in your room, sets you up for the day. Walk to Monserrate Palace, drive to little Azenhas do Mar, dine and wine in Sintra, catch the train to Lisbon. Superb.