In a tranquil ‘suburb’ of old Sintra, steeply down the hill from the centre, is wonderful ‘Douro View House’, named for its end-of-road views. Gaze up at the Moorish Castle or down to glorious green hills. Outside and inside this 1890s summer house you get a marvellous sense of light and space: when the sun shines, rooms and corridors are awash with light. New Belgian owners, father Luc and daughter Charlotte, have painted the lovely plasterwork white and exposed the fine oak floors; the house shines. They meet, greet and help every guest that comes, are knowledgeable about Portuguese food and wine and welcome all ages. All is immaculate but nothing feels precious. There are three charming sitting rooms with newspapers, drinks, sweeties and nespresso on tap; chess boards and magazines, too. Light, airy, uncluttered bedrooms, some with coir carpets, some with stucco ceilings, all with beds wrapped in delicious linen, have private balconies or a piece of terrace; double glazing and heating make them super cosy in winter. Birds trill; breakfasts on the terrace are a joy. And Lisbon is a train trip away.