A treat to be in the centre of the city, down a side street protected from trams. Step inside a superbly renovated 18th-century coach house to find two snug apartments, each with its own entrance, one decorated in pale silver and salmon, the other in warm bronze tones. These are not view-filled spaces – ground-floor windows face the street – but are comfortable and cosy and protected from the world, ideal for two or a couple with child. Living areas and kitchens are open plan with glass-top tables and sofabeds, microwaves, hobs, coffee makers, pots and pans… and cheese, milk, ham, fresh oranges. Lovely Theresa thinks of everything, lives nearby and is a tour guide who knows all the off-the-beaten-track places and the fado restaurants and clubs; she also leaves everything you need for breakfast out every day. Up an open-tread metal-wood stair is a bed beneath a charming vaulted wafer-brick ceiling, in open bathrooms fluffy white towels hang on rustic ladders, and air con is on its way. All this a stroll from fashionable stores, cute shops selling millinery and buttons, cafés, bars and tourists ambling by.