The whole Praia del Rey area is clothed in silence and perfection: no traffic, no barking, just peace, and the brand new Torrel Cliff is modern and impeccable, with none of the usual bustle and jumble of a Portuguese village. Come for the golf and water sports – swimming, kite surfing, crystal-clear diving off the Berlenga islands – or for culture – charming Obidos with its music festival and medieval fair, the old convents of Alcobaça and Batalha, the possibilities are endless. Or, if you just want to relax, each villa has its own lovely pool for a good swim before flopping onto a comfy lounger. Of the four villas, all privately set inside fencing and greenery, two are for B&B and two, each with four double rooms, for rental. They are in Portuguese-Modern style, full of space and light, cleancut and decorated in quiet, contemporary taste with the odd quirky detail. Sleep in a deeply comfortable room then come down for breakfast in a a big restful room done in beautiful shades of blue and white. Manager Christoph, the owners’ son, is easy-going and endlessly helpful. You may feel pampered.