Surrounded by mountains, streams and soaring views you could be miles from civilisation… you are! Negotiate the hair pins, pick the keys up from the village, park in the cul de sac, and clamber down the steep path to the cottage. Surrounded by eucalyptus and chestnut trees, scrubby shrubs, rosemary and heather, Foz dos Barreiros is old, charming, and very well restored. Enter to find an open-plan kitchen and living area, with a starter supply of tea, coffee and olive oil, a cosy fireplace with logs provided, and a sofa. The stylish main bedroom is off here, large and roomy and opening to a terrace. Bedding is of cotton and wool, colours are cool, the bathroom is neat and chic, and a wall of glass pulls in spectacular views – imagine waking to those in the morning! Two more bedrooms wait upstairs, fresh, white and awash with light; and a small shower room. Best of all: Piodao (3km) is the jewel in the crown of the ‘schist’ villages, and you can hike there in 40 minutes. Treat yourself to sheepskin slippers, a wool jumper or local honey, enjoy a little meal at O Solar dos Pachedos, or a beer at Abiterra.