Even if you take the scenic route, it’s only a 15-minute walk from the station to this pretty, pink-hued 18th-century grain store on the Rio Terese. This is the charming home of architects Antonella and Mauro, who live on this quiet backwater with their son Augusto and friendly dog Pia. They’ve transformed two second floor rooms overlooking the canal into bright, restful havens; ‘Miranda’ and ‘Fosca’ have pale walls, exposed beams, burnished parquet floors, comfy ornate beds, pleasingly understated Persian rugs and a scattering of pictures. There’s just enough space for a table and chairs for postcard writing or devouring the continental breakfast – replete with local goodies – that appears outside your door, and a kettle and Nespresso machine in each room satisfy your caffeine cravings. The terracotta-tiled shared bathroom is similarly stylish, clean and spacious. Dorsoduro is a wonderfully untouristy part of the city, full of affordable restaurants and bars, including a cluster in the nearby Campo Santa Margherita. The glorious 12th-century church of San Nicolò dei Mendicoli is on your doorstep.