In the heart of Venice, yet not overwhelmed by tourists, is a perfectly restored house and residenza. You check in round the corner, then delightful reception escorts you to your room. No lift, so be prepared to carry bags to the second (Settimo Cielo) and third (Bloom) floors; on the fourth is the sitting room – books, guide books, your own prosecco in the fridge. From here, step out to the roof top terrace, a privileged spot with a panoramic view, magically lit at night. Back down to the six bedrooms – what fun the owners had in their creation! Spacious and filled with light, named after colours not numbers, they are a beguiling mix of funky and grand. Bows in navy, lilac, cerise attach themselves to doors behind which a heady mix of Venetian baroque and modern minimalism lies; romantic too, though Cream takes the biscuit. Expect raw silk and floating organza, button-back leather and pale painted beams, gilt mirrors and glass-fronted fridges, fine antiques and bathrooms small but exquisite. Buffet breakfasts are elegant and the Chiesa San Vidal is three minutes away – a peerless setting for Vivaldi.