Eugenio and Isabella’s old farmhouse is the last on the road out of Valmorel, a hamlet with just 11 inhabitants. Watch them working on their land from your room while the chickens scratch for food and their dog and six cats keep a watchful eye.
Breakfast is organic and mainly home-grown produce, served on a big terrace opposite the farmhouse: bread, pies or cakes, home-laid eggs, home-made yoghurt, seasonal fruit and jams. Ask about lunch or dinner, usually created with surplus harvest exchanged with other small farmers in the area.
You can watch TV, read or play board games in the cosy sitting room, and rustle up a simple meal in the guest kitchen. There are a handful of trattorias nearby – including a Michelin-starred restaurant, Al Peden. Eugenio will happily take you on excursions into the mountains, and if you visit in June there’s a cheese festival with tastings, music and art.