A mile up a strada bianca from the Borgo della Marmotta (restaurant, rooms, wellness centre, gym), above silvery swathes of olive groves and the vale of Spoleto, is a cluster of mellow stone buildings. Your holiday retreats are found in the pretty pink and white one; once guarding olive press, wine cellar and pigeon loft, it stands next to the 17th-century hunting lodge of Cardinal Annibale della Genga (now the country villa of the Fargnas.) Tall languid Filippo welcomes you to an estate that’s been in the family for 400 years and can count a cardinal and a pope amongst his ancestors. While each ‘house’ is spacious, elegant and luxurious, Grottone is positively spectacular, its living space dominated by a raw wall of rock, its furnishings modern, industrial and gorgeously lit. Who would not delight in this supremely peaceful spot where nothing jars the senses… the graceful apartments, the gardens shaded by pomegranate trees, the infinity pool below? Bedrooms are cossetting, ceiling beams stupendous, bathrooms chic, and Assisi, Spello, Trevi and Gubbio are an hour’s drive – should you manage to escape.