Just beyond the outskirts of Spoleto you find yourself in winding leafy country lanes. And there is La Licina, tucked into a fold of the hills, a mini ‘borgo’ at the end of the track. Friendly open Ludovico and Francesca live in the main house, guests live in the ochre-washed stables a pace away. Ginestra, on the ground floor, may be where the horses slept but you wouldn’t know it now, though the brick inner arch and the chunky beams remain. This simple, spotless, open-plan space opens to its own grassy garden with a round table, a barbecue and gentle green views. Tartufo, which lies above, is similarly comfortable, with slightly more workspace in its kitchen and a step away from its own elevated, furnished patio with pretty views. Lots to love: a pool, pines and hosts who give you figs, plums and pears from their garden (smothered in wild orchids in early spring), and all the local info you desire. The position is fantastic: you are walking distance from civilised Spoleto, and a three-minute stroll through the olive groves to a pizzeria… life in the slow lane, and you can pat the neighbours’ donkeys on the way!