All you hear is cicada hum on this vast old hunting estate – 600 hectares of cultivated fields, olive groves and tranquillity, with views to Umbria to one side, Tuscany to the other. Wash up in front of a big rosy-brick house and converted tobacco-drying tower, and a warm, effusive welcome from multi-lingual Milena. There are three apartments here, two on the ground floor opening to the garden, the third (sleeping ten) spread across the top floor and reached via an outside stair. Thanks to Milena, interiors are spic, span, contemporary and classy, furnished in creamy shades with shots of colour. There are ceiling fans and cool floors, thick bathrobes and white kitchenettes, the occasional wall hanging or beautiful cow hide rug. It’s a civilised spot for sybarites, and heaven for nature lovers, too: hedgehogs, hares, badgers, roe deer, all drop by. The gardens are well-tended, two trees are slung with hammocks, there’s a long communal table under the pergola, delicious rattan sofas, white parasols, and a large pool. Arezzo, Montepulciano and Lake Trasimeno lie over the hill.