At the end of the long, winding ‘strada bianca’ is a little spur of land topped by a borgo of buildings clinging to the hillside with incomparable views. Waiting with smiles and open arms are Riccardo and Marilisa’s wonderful staff. They take your bags and lead you into the borgo’s church, now a glorious living room of frescoes and marble, sofas and flowers (heaven on a rainy day!). Beyond is a games room with colourwashed walls, then a dining room of elegant tables beneath high chestnut beams, opening to a shaded terrace. Bedrooms, each unique in size, shape and feel, are soothing, understated and beautiful: a reclaimed marble sink here, a weathered door there, family antiques, polished boards, lavish linen. Outside, up and down alleyways, in between ancient dwelling houses, are fruit trees, lavender, roses, bamboo, a vegetable garden, an infinity pool, a jacuzzi, a gazebo for massages… and, always, a stunning Umbrian view. Start the day with a sumptuous breakfast (much is home-grown) and end it by the open fire or under the stars with a seasonal, sensational meal.