Every window of your upstairs lodging in this ancient building frames a bowl-you-over view. It is above an empty stable, old roses climb the walls, a venerable outside stone staircase leads to the apartment and its loggia-terrace overlooking that spectacular landscape. The glorious, twin-pillared sitting room has soft seating for all by the original fireplace and beautiful books. The brand new marble-top kitchen/breakfast room seems to have everything, even an electric kettle, so rare in Italy. All the big, elegant bedrooms are bright with high painted beams, simple furniture and good newly-renovated bathrooms. Charming Olivia, a qualified guide, knows the area backwards and can organise wine-tasting, children’s activities, anything. She also lays on a generous welcome basket, including some of their own olive oil. Francesco farms the vast estate, producing cattle and fodder, wine, olives and fruit. Bathe like Romans in hot spring waters, do some serious food-tasting at local ‘sagras’, (re)visit the wonders of Tuscany and Umbria. You can walk to Heinz Becks’ Michelin-starred Fighine restaurant, so spoil yourselves.