A clutch of 17th-century buildings – some beautifully restored, others ageing gracefully – make up this glorious wine estate half an hour from Siena. The hamlet is full of life: tractors trundle around the country lanes, estate workers throw you a cheery ‘Buongiorno!’ as they pass, dogs scamper around your feet on arrival. Despite the hubbub, this is a refined, relaxed place to stay. Archways, formal gardens and courtyards beg exploration, and there’s a delightful pool for lazy afternoons. There’s always stuff going on here too: cookery courses, wine and olive oil tasting, trips to neighbouring towns and vineyards. And if you fancy exploring on horseback you can arrange to saddle up at the stables next door. The comfortable, spacious apartments are each in a separate part of the estate; the atmosphere is of rustic elegance with antique pieces, exposed brickwork and wonderful colours on the walls – ochres, terracottas, lemon yellows. Petite, sparkly-eyed Paola throws masses of energy into everything she does; she and Vittorio are a great team and will look after you perfectly. You won’t want to leave!