From monogrammed robes (the family were in textiles) to organic olive oils, there’s no shortage of luxury. Commissioned in the 19th century by engineer Parri, recognized by the state as a historic home, Villa Parri commands a hill six kilometres above Pistoia. The site is a glorious launch pad for Lucca, Florence and Montecatini, while Pistoia itself is a gem. Play duke and duchess amid polished antiques and stately parquet in six large apartments spread over three floors, linked by a rather grand stair (no lift!). A further two retreats, neat, bright and contemporary, wait in the single-storey Dependence beyond, formerly a textiles laboratory. Rustle up your own breakfasts (there’s a little stores you can walk to) or treat yourself to a beautiful buffet in the exquisitely frescoed limonaia. You sense happy teamwork here, starting with the owners, warm, friendly and hands-on, while the smartly terraced gardens are quite something, all wisteria-draped pergolas and century-old trees, and a pool positioned for sunsets. A path leads to the forest above, so hike it. Taste the cellar’s wines, take the children to Pistoia Zoo.