Wind up the chestnutty hill and discover the kindness of your mother-and-son hosts, and Mamma’s fresh pasta, famed far and wide. She, Matteo and his family live 2 km away near their two new apartments. This peaceful spot, all woods, fresh air and long views, is delightful and cool in the hot Tuscan summer. The gracious veranda that hugs the ground floor holds the restaurant. Inside, there’s a sitting nook by the original fireplace, a space that brims with charm, old musical instruments, and spirits for sipping and chatting after a day in the woods or visiting the treasures of Tuscany. Quiet, snug bedrooms have bright prints, some old doors or beams. The family aim for organic and local where possible, using lots of home-grown ingredients, local chestnuts, porcini mushrooms and pumpkins. For breakfast, Mamma makes cakes and jams with their own fruit. Tucked into the hill, hidden from the locanda and road, is a timber deck for cooling off after a dip in the hot tub and contemplating the view down onto Valdinievole. Or you can rent one of the simple, refurbished, big-bedroomed apartments and have your meals at the locanda.