Drink in gulpfuls of mountain fresh air in the foothills of the Svizzera Pesciatina – Tuscany’s ‘Little Switzerland’. Home to a beguiling brood of ancient breed Cinta Senese pigs, this huge estate immersed in greenery is presided over by elegant, bubbly Signora – an unlikely pig farmer. The farm buildings have been cleverly divided into apartments that fit together like a puzzle; we like the three oldest best, near the main villa, each very private. The rest – near the pool – are quite a drive up winding roads, precipitous in parts: not for the faint-hearted nor heavily-laden hire cars! All have gardens, barbecues and outside seating. The exteriors are full of character, the interiors are simple, and some of the newer ones have steep stairs. Help with the harvests, bring a Tuscan cookbook: the kitchens, with old sinks but with new everything else, beg to be used, and there’s a lovely shop next to the office selling their delicious homemade produce – try the vino santo or Cinta Senese sauce. The views are stunning – particularly from the pool – and the villages are worth a good wander.