Oh my goodness how lovely! A beautiful place with enchanting owners. A treat of a retreat for Italophiles in search of tranquility, away from techy devices. This medieval stone palazzo in its tiny, remote, hilltop village has a wonderful serenity; nothing jars. Soft, warm colours blend with natural stone, wood and terracotta. Views are of red rooftops and wooded mountains, beds are gently canopied, bathrooms too are simple, spotless. There’s a fine upstairs loggia, a library and collection of local maps and photos – Massimo is writing a guidebook of their favourite haunts and walks especially for guests. You breakfast – generously, on heavenly things from Giovanna’s kitchen and not far beyond – indoors or out on the two-tier terrace with its jacuzzi and loungers. In summer you can stroll to a local trattoria and eat well, or head for thermally endowed Bagni di Lucca, a half hour’s drive. The Garfagnana region is a joy to explore – on foot, by bike – and at the edge of Tereglio the Niccoli’s lavender slope is so intoxicating in bloom you’ll want to bottle it. A very special place; luxurious in its simplicity.