The Palazzo, elegant in yellow and white, sits in a dignified part of the city just a 15-minute walk to the Duomo. Up handsome stone stairs (or a zoom in a newly-installed crystal lift) to the upper floors and a choice of three large, light apartments: Magnolia – loaded with tall windows; Stars and Stripes – snazzy and elegant; Leopardi – striking and with a more tucked away feel. The Franchini family have owned this building for generations, but Vieri (who has another apartment in the same building) and Guido have brought it bang up to the moment while respecting the beauty of the architecture. No corners have been cut: you’ll delight in huge travertine slabs from Puglia, antique and contemporary art and furniture, plush sofas, marble counters, wonderful colours, hand-painted doors, beds and bathrooms to encourage malingering and something to surprise (with a nautical feel) at every turn. Outdoors you can ogle, taste, shop, learn history and be inspired to create – the Franchini brothers are cultured and well connected so can point you to many experiences and places not usually mentioned in the guide books.