Strolling distance from bus and railway station is this handsome palazzo, the talk of the town. No reception staff, no communal space, just a big fur throw on a welcoming divan and smiling housekeepers who bring breakfast to your room. On each floor an honesty fridge carries soft drinks, wine and champagne, but best of all are the bedrooms, eclectic, original and humorous – and with heaps of style. If you can splash out on a larger, more lavish one, do, though all are delightful. One, with a sunken bath and Japanese prints on the walls, is a deep sensual red; another is 18th-century elegant with a black velvet sofa and gold taffeta curtains; off the patio is the Studio, with a cute kitchenette and a big bed above. There’s one room for those who come with their best friend in tow (dogs’ beds, baskets, large terrace), while the Play Room is for families (Disney videos, a climbing wall!). Bathrooms are memorable and nights are air-conditioned and peaceful, providing you keep windows shut. A breath of fresh air and two steps from the Duomo.