The wholegrain bread, the rice cake, the yogurt, jellies and jams: all are homemade. The melons are tasty, the juice freshly squeezed; breakfast under the pergola is a delicious affair. Alice (who offers pasta-making classes) and Gavin, the loveliest couple you could wish to meet, are putting the final touches to an ancient cottage where once three families lived. On a triangle of land shared with hens, ducks and rabbits, flanked by two quiet roads – one to Sestino, the other to their house – Piccionaia is where the pigeons once lived, and Granaio is where the hay was stored. Next to the veg patch is the Bread Oven, which awaits its own transformation; on the terrace below is a small cooling-off pool (50cm deep!) or head off for fabulous wild swimming nearby. You can B&B here or self-cater, in simple kitchens where worktops are made of handsome chestnut planks, and Italian coffee makers take pride of place. In the larger Piccionaia, a perfectly balanced staircase leads to the bedroom upstairs; the shower, sofabed and wood-burner lie below. Towels hang from rustic ladders; white basins sit on recycled tiles; truffle hunts are planned… Wonderful.
We had a magical time at Ca' Valenzano. Thank you to Alice and Gavin for the excellent hospitality. I don't know if the best part was the wild swimming, the freshly baked croissants, or the magnificent view. The most bittersweet was the scent of cut mint on the last day, drifting from the fields below, as we reluctantly packed up. I keep thinking of the feast, the truffle festival, watching for shooting stars, and how beautiful it must be as the seasons change. We will be back next summer, we booked before we left, and the children are counting down the days.