With probably the highest sauna in Europe, this eco-smart, rustic refuge is memorable for all the right reasons. At nearly 3000m the views are breath-taking; you’ve 7.5km of ski piste to explore and the altitude makes meals taste extra good. Tyrolean specialities like knödel (cheese and veg, or meat and veg dumplings), goulash and apple strudel are made on the spot. Fresh ingredients come from the Grüner’s Goldene Rose Hotel garden down in Certosa, known too for its Carthusian monastery. Paul looks after the refuge and is happy to advise on everything. Behind red wooden shutters comfortable bedrooms have stacks of fairy-tale charm in wood everywhere: in walls, doors, creaky floors, beds, beams, tables, washbasins even; and in checked red and white duvet covers. It would be great to come with a gang of friends and take over the 18-sleeper attic dorm. Bathrooms are shared; shower rooms have magnificent mountain landscape views with glaciers and lakes. So too, of course, does the popular terrace. If you can tear yourself away the extraordinary Archeopark open-air museum is fascinating.