A delight to find B&B in the fishermen’s quarter, bright with bobbing boats, still unposh, still unspoiled. Nice and peaceful too: there are no through roads and the sea is on three sides. Slip into the hall of this 1900s block – past Enzo’s bike and canoe – then up a narrow stone stair to the flat on the first floor. Warm generous Enzo, ex lecturer in tourism, lives with his much-loved dog – Argo! To the right are the two guest bedrooms; to the left, a small living area and a strikingly colourful terrace; find a couple of sunloungers, bright flowers, a potted olive, objets trouvés. This is where Enzo brings you a breakfast of fresh breads, great coffee, exotic jams. Steps continue to a larger terrace bright with Tunisian tiles, and up to a small secluded patio from which you can gaze on the Egadi Islands: a pretty spot for a glass of wine and a snooze. The two bedrooms, not large but interesting and original, have firm beds, decorative antique floor tiles and domed ceilings. Trapani’s once neglected baroque centre is rich with churches, museums, restaurants and shops; the beaches are sandy and gorgeous.