It’s definitely not the loveliest of areas but a big surprise lies behind this modest Sicilian villa; a huge terrace with knock-out views over a beautiful rocky coastline and a romantic, gleaming-white lighthouse. Chances are you’ll spend much of your time here, drifting and dreaming. Perched on a small hill, the house is unpretentious and homely. Help yourself to breakfast from the well-stocked fridge; much of the produce comes from Giuseppe’s family’s organic farm or the small vegetable garden below the villa. Giuseppe – laid-back and unfussy – also prepares a welcoming dinner. Eat on the terrace or in the sunny kitchen. Rooms are simple and traditional in style – tiled floors, shuttered windows, high ceilings – and furnished with well-loved family treasures. One bedroom has a balcony, the other a handsome desk; both have lovely sea-views. This area is a buzzing place in summer; light sleepers might prefer the quieter, family room. If you can drag yourself from the hammock on the terrace, there’s Mount Etna (Giuseppe arranges tours), swimming and watersports (free kayaks). Plus great seafood restaurants on your doorstep. This is living with the locals, and it’s fun.