Delicate, ethereal Noto is one of Sicily’s baroque gems; it may be smaller than Ragusa but it still attracts a crowd. Above the more touristy centre, flanked by discreet offices and atmospheric shops, is a traditional house beautifully renovated by Angelica. A modest front opens to a charming maze of light airy rooms on varying levels, with tall 1900s windows and decorative floor tiles delightfully intact. You can rent the ground floor apartment (with garden) or the floor above (with balcony and terrace) – each has an entrance off the street – or you can take them together: they interconnect. The décor throughout is creative and stylish, an imaginative mix of muted 1930s pieces and bright patterned modern: an old-fashioned cast-iron radiator, a contemporary basin, a chair upholstered back to life. Jasmine and roses ramble in the garden at the most peaceful back; peaches and pomegranates, lemons and figs flourish. Stock up at the Monday market, pick a café for a creamy cassata or an iced coffee with whipped cream, cool off on the beautiful beaches and crystal-clear coves of Vendicari.