Straddling a busy corner in spire-embellished Modica (there are dozens of churches on your doorstep) is this grand old hotel. Hemmed in by a lively café bar on one side, and its Michelin-starred restaurant on the other, the place buzzes with locals and tourists. The very smart exterior, with its red-carpeted stone steps and handsome red awnings, belies the atmosphere inside: informal, relaxed and friendly. Cheerful staff welcome you through sparkling glass doors and whisk you up wide stairs, through a beautiful old room with original floor-to-ceiling wood panelling, and into opulent bedrooms. Polished marble floors are decorated in exquisite geometric patterns; cherubs dance across high frescoed ceilings; and beautiful antiques from all corners of Italy pose against sumptuously papered walls. Chandeliers, gilt-framed paintings, rich embroidered bed linen: it’s fabulous. Further rooms are found off a lovely sunlit courtyard a minute’s walk from the main hotel. Have breakfast in the café, supper in the restaurant, and spend every hour in between exploring this beautiful town.