In Modica’s baroque heart is a small 19th-century townhouse in which history and modernity magically combine. It has been remodelled by artist and eco engineer Luca – zero-impact energy applies and feng shui principles shine. Off a narrow, broad-stepped alley to a solid wood front door, and a friendly housekeeper invites you in and shows you the ropes. Find a cool, calm, unexpectedly spacious interior, bright with natural colours and bold canvases, polished cement floors and wrought-iron banisters… and stylish candle lanterns for bedrooms, balcony and terrace. The double is off the open-plan living room while the family room is up some steps and opens to a big dining terrace, replete with lemon trees in pots and a roofscape that twinkles at night. White and chocolate brown linen enfolds simple wrought-iron bedsteads, there are antique floor tiles and painted wooden shutters, and small but perfectly formed bathrooms. Modica has endless fiestas and a jazz festival in July; lovely beaches are 20 minutes away. The serenity nourishes the soul.