It’s a long and winding road to get here, and the final track is rough. But once here, guests tend not to stray (who would?). Stunning Susafa is a fortified farmhouse of honey coloured tufo and burnt terracotta, built around a central courtyard to deter the sun; once, a hundred families lived here. Turn right for the old wine press: a bar/sitting room with a fab fireplace; turn left for outside seating and a barbecue; cross a walkway for a roof terrace with breathtaking views. Below this, the bedrooms, and a lawn with sun beds and chunky palms. A rustic simplicity spiced with glam touches runs throughout this 1,200-hectare estate, overseen with great charm by brothers Tommaso and Manfredi. In the huge vaulted granary beautiful breakfasts are laid out: juice your own oranges, choose orchard jams, taste a different baked cake every day. The nearest restaurant is seven miles away so dine in: the food is seasonal, abundant, delicious. Jasmine wafts through the windows, hibiscus glows in the sun. Bedrooms have armoires and soft colours; bathrooms wide basins, spacious showers, no windows. As for the pool… heaven.