Adventurers will love the drive – from Palermo and the coast it’s an hour on winding mountain roads to reach the remote stone farmhouse, transformed into guesthouse and vibrant restaurant. This is agriturismo at its best, a chance to live simply at 600 metres above sea level, where lush flowers and abundant produce grow in the soft Sicilian climate. Sleep to the sound of the wind and wild birds, and wake to breakfast in the garden. The Rinchiuso family are warmth itself – chef Lino knows and loves the food he grows and cooks, an inheritance from parents and grandparents who farmed in nearby Alia. He will surprise you with his cooking – perhaps fresh greens from the garden, sautéed with sausage and tossed in homemade fettuccine. Grilled meats, vegetarian antipasti, Sicilian deserts and wines… a riot of delicious flavours, and you can sign up to cookery classes to learn how it’s done. Son Vincenzo lived abroad, but now gives guests fabulous tailored tours of local villages and food producers – guests too will be seduced by the scents and colours of these mountains, which were powerful enough to lure him back.