A wonderful setting for this handsome old farmhouse tucked deeply into the hilly lava countryside between Etna (grand view from the house) and the Nebrodi mountains (another grand view from the other side of the house). Friendly Saro and Mariolina have both spent time working in hotels so know how to look after you: breakfast indoors or out on homemade cake, fresh local cheeses, warm bread; supper might be frittelle di ricotta, polpette, timballo or roast pork – proper home cooking with vegetables from their own patch in the garden. Bedrooms are unfussy and uncluttered with bright cubist paintings on the walls, white embroidered curtains, wild flowers, fruit and simple furniture; basic bathrooms with modern mosaic tiles are spotless. Wander through an open courtyard to the garden, the owners’ vineyard, a swimming pool for a cooling splash, and then open countryside (swathed in wild flowers in spring). Further afield there are miles of walking trails through the Alcantara reserve or the mountains, a beautiful pebble beach at Fiumefreddo; Castiglione and Randazzo are worth a snoop around. Bucolic bliss.