Welcome to a simple agriturismo on the slopes of Mount Etna run by the Neti family who live in Linguaglossa: Salvo, Santo and grandmama Antonina, a kindly retired teacher and old-fashioned Sicilian. Away from the coast, at the top of a winding road, this peaceful farm lies opposite the family’s spa resort. What you find here are two well-renovated single-storey buildings in grounds dotted with olive trees and one tall palm, and a stone barbecue and outdoor kitchen you can use. The view of the volcano, not unusual but still beautiful, is ever present; gaze on it as you idle by the pool. For the sporty, there are free mountain bikes and cycling routes through the family’s vineyards. Thanks to the area’s lava-rich soil, wines, fruits, wild asparagus and nuts (huge walnuts!) abound; if you love hazelnut pastries, head for Pasticceria Alhambra in Linguaglossa – you can walk there. As for the bedrooms, they are simple and spotless. We liked Donna Caterina with its antique iron bedstead, sofabed on the mezzanine and walls of light blue, but if you prefer to self-cater go for rustic, roomy Palmento, or elegant Carrubbo which opens to the pool.