Cordiality, tranquillity, simplicity, at the end of a long winding road. Built in 1850, modernised in 2003, the plain granite stazzu gallurese still keeps its reed-woven ceiling, its corner fireplace, its little windows: there’s no artifice here. This charming Milanese couple swapped the city for nature and beaches (eight miles off), lone cattle grazing, peasant foods and homemade wines: life in the slow lane. He is a garden designer and has created an ornamental and a vegetable garden in harmony with the landscape; she is a translator. They give you your own bright sitting room with a rustic bohemian décor – vine branches and sea shells, a comfortable sofa, a simple table and chairs – off which is a sweet bedroom with soothing colours and polished cement floor. The bathroom has a bath with a curtain and a washing machine; all is spotless, frill-free. Breakfasts, in contrast, are sumptuous: yogurts, fruits, pastries, cakes, quiches, cheeses, eggs and cold cuts, brought to the pergola in summer. Discover a hinterland of cork oaks and wild olives, return to a hammock slung between the trees.