A hidden gem in a typical Sardinian town, the old farmhouse has been beautifully restored by the Lugas family – they’ve been here for two centuries – with inherited pieces and portraits. It oozes charm from the ancient cobbled yard to the music room, the antique medical books and, of course, the owners. Josefina, a brilliant and loving cook, uses their home-grown organic meat and veg; Virginia, very much part of the family; Luigi, an art and history buff, will happily take you to see the 16th-century church of St Anthony; son Andrea came back after university, drawn by his love of this land and its traditions. An affable character, he talks with passion about the family farm and his organic olive oil. The five bedrooms, soft and welcoming in their pastel colours, are big, airy and furnished with precious antique beds on pale wooden floors. Don’t miss the Giara di Gésturi nature park with its shy wild ponies, goats, wild pig and interesting birds; or Barumini and its extraordinary, 3000-year-old, nuraghe. Settle with the archangel for a week and drive or bike out every day to discover a different south-Sardinian marvel.