Welcome to the land of the crisp, dry ‘primitivo’ grape. Wooden wine barrels line the track that winds through a sea of olive trees and ends at Le Fabriche, right in the middle of a vineyard. The welcome is warm, the landscape is serene, the house is noble and 17th century. Inside, a series of small communal spaces have been lovingly restored, their mellow stone walls and vaulted ceilings a rustic backdrop for elegant, contemporary décor. Modernist velvet sofas face you in reception, along with crisp little tables, candles by fireplaces, unique ceramic pieces and a corner bar. The vibe is laid-back and easy, thanks to Alessia and her assistant Marilisa, warm, charming and lively. Alessia loves to cook for her guests and share her knowledge of Puglia’s food and wine: learn a thing or two at her tastings and classes. Bedrooms are housed in two long modern structures hiding in the olive groves – comfortable, sleek, with stone floors, natural colours and bathrooms to satisfy the most demanding of Italians; some have terraces. If you can bear to leave, the sea is three miles.