If you’re dreaming of a truly rustic break by the sea, away from modern paraphernalia, then head for the heel of Italy and these stone dwellings engulfed in wild Puglian flora. The path and steps leading up through rosemary, olive and prickly pear brings you first to the ancient, flat-topped Trullo house. Its bedroom transports you back centuries: a small space without windows, its mod cons are a ceiling fan and a screened door that stays open for light and air. Up steps to the main stone house with a double bedroom on each floor and a living area with wood-burning stove. There’s an indoor bathroom, and another one outdoors – along with two showers and an indoor and outdoor camping kitchen. It’s all perfectly basic, the focus on outdoor living, with three terraces plus a rooftop for superb sea views. Flop in a hammock or lounger and be lulled by Mediterranean scents and breezes. Tear yourself away to visit Santa Maria di Leuca at the tip of the heel, Novaglie, with its mini harbour and restaurants, or take a walking/boat tour to see the Grotta Zinzulusa – fabulous prehistoric caves. Return for more raw beauty – magical.