At the tip of the heel of Puglia, characterized by flat farms lined with centuries-old olive trees, wonderfully twisted and gnarly, is the unique area of Salento. Close to a small village with some tempting trattoria, near the beaches of the Ionian Sea, is the gate to Masseria Cisternella. Miriam, a natural hostess with Tuscan origins, has resurrected her grandfather’s old olive farm; now she and her mother transfer down to Puglia every summer to run their B&B. Across the way from the main house are three single-storey stone outbuildings that have been sympathetically converted into five guest rooms with private entrances, fronted by a quadrangle of lavender and herbs. Inside, family antiques and artisan-made reproductions rest beneath lofty mansard ceilings, illuminated by light streaming in and white bedspreads from Sardinia, while contemporary bathrooms have rain showers and rock basins; all is calming, charming and cool. Best of all, beautiful breakfasts are brought to individual curtained gazebos within sight of the sea – homemade cakes and jams, fresh ricotta, local cheeses and hams.
Our accommodation converted sympathetically from an ancient farmhouse. Our hostess Miriam totally charming and a great source of advise about local restaurants, lidos and places to visit. Sitting outside our room to have breakfast was so restful while we looked at the scenery and the sea in the distance. A handy situation to see all of the southern tip of Italy. It was a marvellous place to stay.